We’re Elise and Paul — middle-aged, well-travelled, French by birth, Londoners by choice, and Villefranchois at heart.
(And yes — Paul is originally from Nice, so this part of the world feels very much like home.)
Over the years, we’ve circled the globe, but there’s something about Villefranche-sur-Mer that keeps pulling us back. Every year, we spend time here in January, again in spring, and once more in September or October.
Paul runs a landscape and irrigation company, and I (Elise) work in marketing.
Our perfect day? It starts with a morning coffee at Le Palmier, La Baleine Joyeuse or Café de la Paix (best baguette in the boulangerie next door) — these spots feel like old friends. At Le Palmier, the owners always remember us, the coffee is reliably good, and there’s a chance Paul will charm his way into reading the Nice Matin between fellow early risers (usually older gentlemen with strong newspaper opinions). Come evening, the barman — a connoisseur of craft beers and metal music — will happily guide you through the taps.
La Baleine Joyeuse is our go-to for lunch on sunny days: simple, cheerful, and perfectly located at La Darse. We also adore Lou Bantry, on the harbor, where you can eat well at any hour — from generous local breakfasts to hearty Niçoise lunches and decadent desserts. Le Cosmo, Pelagos, Les Garçons, and La Grignotière (right down from our flat — vintage interiors and all!) also rank high on our list.
We shop like semi-locals too: for groceries, Casino Shop on Rue du Poilu is surprisingly well stocked — and they do good pastries. Pro tip: always say a warm “bonjour” to the shop assistant when you walk in. It’s a small gesture, but it goes a long way here.
For a bit of browsing, we recommend Les Senteurs de Marie — her selection is curated with heart and great taste. Cargo and Viktor also carry lovely dresses and pieces if you’re in a Riviera shopping mood.
And when it’s time to unwind, we head to the far eastern stretch of Plage des Marinières, where the crowds thin and the sea sparkles just right.
This site is our little love letter to Villefranche — the version we’ve come to know slowly, season after season. We hope it helps you experience the village in the same relaxed, curious way we do.